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I was at the event, and in person, the sheer fabric blended beautifully with her skin tone, creating a nude effect without blatantly exposing her breasts. However, under the glare of flash bulbs and spotlights, the dress bared all, and the exquisite effect of the Swarovski-covered dress blending with the pop star’s already radiant skin simply vanished.

 

Even so, it takes more than nipples to scare a fashion crowd. After all, bras and pasties are not exactly required underpinnings at runway shows. And most designers who were at the event can likely recall a time they’ve sent a model out in a translucent top.

 

“I’m here tonight to talk about how Rihanna communicates through fashion because that, of course, is what style icons do,” said Anna Wintour, who presented Rihanna with the CFDA’s fashion icon award. “They tell us captivating stories about themselves and about the world we live in through the boldness and beauty of their clothes.

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“Rihanna speaks to her fans with her every look,” Wintour continued. “And what she says to them, and I include all of us in that group, is that it’s fun to be a little boyish one day and dress up like a dazzling diva the next, I think that is what she was going for tonight.

 

“The point is to be audacious, even jaw dropping or button pushing. And yes, we know she enjoys pushing buttons, while remaining true to yourself. She proves that incredible style can help take a young woman from a small island to the world stage and along the way spark a lot of conversation about elegance and empowerment.”

 

Mel Ottenberg, who helped dress Rihanna, told Style en route to the awards ceremony that it was a bit naked.

 

“I don’t know if it’s shocking — I’m with her all the time, so my shock gauge is off, but I told her that I thought she was ready for this dress a while ago, and that I wasn’t. I’m the prude, and I’m just catching up.”

 

Ottenberg’s boyfriend and frequent Rihanna collaborator, Adam Selman, designed the look, which Ottenberg said was held together by “fishnet and crystals and a couple of fingers crossed.” Selman has created costumes for Rihanna’s tours since 2011, and co-designed her River Island capsule collection.

 

Perhaps the most marvelous thing — and fitting for her role as fashion icon — was Rihanna’s relative ease in the sheer ensemble. She glided into the auditorium after most guests had been ushered to their seats, stooping down to hug founder’s award recipient Bethann Hardison, chatting easily with Blake Lively and warmly greeting Lupita Nyong’o, who sat a few seats down.

 

If boundary-pushing fashion takes the courage to bare it all, then Rihanna has style in spades.

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Katya Leoncio's swimwear brand Dolcessa was named emerging designer of the year Saturday night at Phoenix Fashion Week 2013 at Talking Stick Resort.

Leoncio accepted the award, which comes with a prize package valued at more than $10,000 in goods and services, before Fashion Week's finale from avant garde Filipino designer Rocky Gathercole.

Surprisingly, the Las Vega-based swimwear brand that has been featured in Sports Illustrated multiple times beat out those who looked like front-runners, including Trang Nguyen and Doux Belle, which both revealed their collections last night.

This already-successful brand being named emerging designer of the year highlights problems with the competition. First, Dolcessa makes swimwear, while other designers create evening wear and others make T-shirts. So, from the get-go the playing field is uneven, because all designers are being judged on making wildly dissimilar garments that require different skill sets. Second, Dolcessa is a brand that's obviously well-connected, having appeared in such major magazines asPeople, Maxim, and OK, in addition to ad campaigns for Vegas' Cosmopolitan Casino and on Kate Upton in Sports Illustrated. Other designers in the competition appear to be learning how to construct a collection that isn't an utter trainwreck, let alone garnering national attention for their work.

Third, and most problematic: Dolcessa is, without question, an established brand, and should've never been included in this emerging competition -- unless all the rest of the emerging designers were at the same level. They weren't. And it's only confused further the premise of the competition.

The final night of Phoenix Fashion Week 2013 featured a few familiar names: Silvia Bours, who was 2011's emerging designer of the year, PFW advisor Percy Knox's impeccable menswear label Élevée, which caters to pro athletes, and formal wear label Enzoani, which opened the evening. All have shown at Fashion Weeks past.

Enzoani opened with overly embellished prom dresses and bridal gowns. Bours followed with a line of sparkly, girlish dresses reminiscent of a baroque Betsey Johnson. The bigger Bours goes when it comes to spectacle, the better. The designer's flouncy party dresses work best when they're glittered and sequined to the hilt.

As expected, Élevée showed a selection of beautifully tailored and styled men's suits and casual wear. The brand's use of color and crisp, classic styling exhibits why the label has such a well-heeled following (and why it's been name-dropped by both Esquire and GQ). A quilted leather blazer was the showpiece of the presentation.

Then came the emerging designers of the evening.

Scottsdale's Doux Belle was a pleasant, elegant surprise. Designed by Rachel Wagner, the line featured vintage-inspired evening wear for women. While Wagner's pieces had major fit issues (the dresses only fell well on the twiggiest of the models), she went all out with her premise with feathered frocks, a creamy, chic 1920s-inspired dress, and an all-black showstopper that evoked the iconic Givenchy dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's.

Michelle Hebert fared less well with her naturalism-inspired gowns. Her first look was a lovely leather mini-dress with laser-cut details at the shoulders. The line moved into dresses made from twigs, gowns with unfinished hemlines, and pieces of messy construction. Perhaps the raw edges were intentional, but the designs weren't strong enough conceptually to carry the faults.

Nguyen seemed heir apparent to 2012 emerging designer of the year Bri Seeley. Her collection progressed beautifully from stark white and rich red ready-to-wear pieces to a dramatic red wedding dress. There were flaws (like the overuse of red lace), but some of the designer's riskier choices paid off. For example, her use of a bright pink floral print paired with red and white was a daring choice that showed she's pushing herself and her clothing. Unfortunately, she didn't win emerging designer of the year.

Dolcessa being named designer of the year proved to put a bit of a damper on the remainder of the evening (for me, anyway), in addition to throwing off the evening's rhythm. After the winner was announced, many attendees got up to leave. Instead of a quick break or intermission, the show moved into Phoenix Fashion Week's final show from Gathercole.

 

The designer's artistic designs were brought to the event to top or match the spectacle that Furne One closed with in 2012. It didn't exceed last year's finale in grandeur, but it was entertaining enough. With sculptural designs made of paper, spikes, sequins, and feathers, Fashion Week made its finale a must-see.

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LIM College will host the unveiling of Europeana Fashion, an online European fashion archive to include more than 700,000 digital items of fashion content connected to Europeana, the European Digital Library, at a conference today. The project encompasses 22 partners from 12 European countries. Included are the private archives of Pitti Immagine, Pucci, Missoni, Rossimoda; those of museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Musée de la Mode et du Textile at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris, Mode Museum of Antwerp, Museu do Design e da Moda of Lisbon and more, and new associated partners the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum and the Gianfranco Ferré Foundation.

The archive offers a variety of services and features, including a specialized data model known as EFDM, a fashion thesaurus available in 10 languages and the “IPR Best Practice Guidelines Manual,” to assist Europeana Fashion partners in clearing intellectual property rights for images. In addition to delivering content through its portal, Europeana Fashion will develop an interactive component with a Tumblr as well as a presence on social media platforms.

 

Today’s conference, presented by Alessandra Arezzi Boza, communications and content director of the Europeana Fashion Project, is called “Fashion: Now & Then: Meaning, Media and Mode,” in which participants will discuss the past, present and future uses of global fashion information, and continues through Saturday at LIM.

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